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Chinch Bugs
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| The Southern Chinch Bug is the most damaging lawn insect to St. Augustine grass. It is common to see chinch bug activity from March through October. Some years, activity may occur earlier and end later. Most cases of chinch bugs we see start from moisture deficient areas that occur from March to October. Chinch bug adults are about 1/5” long, black in color, and have white wings. Immature chinch bugs (nymphs) are about the size of a pinhead, are red in color, and have a white band across their back. In our area, there may be as many as seven generations of hatchings per season. There may be several stages of the insect present at once. Chinch bugs damage St. Augustine grass by sucking plant juices along the runners, causing yellowing, followed by death of the affected areas. These areas typically occur near pavement where reflective heat causes premature drying in select areas of the turf. These stressed areas are prime targets for a chinch bug infestation. Any lawns which are over-watered (stress) may draw in activity. If these areas go unnoticed or untreated, they may quickly grow together into large brown dead areas. Chinch bugs are nothing to ignore. They can leave your lawn devastated and ruin the appearance of your entire landscape. Many times, turf thinning from chinch bugs results not in turf loss, but infiltration of wild grasses and weeds. This can also ruin your lawns appearance. Chemical control of chinch bugs is just that – CONTROL. Our goal is to keep populations low enough where damage does not occur. We recommend using resistant varieties of St. Augustine, such as Floratam, Floralawn, and Floratine. These varieties of St. Augustine make it more difficult for the chinch bugs to complete their life cycle. More resistant strains of chinch bugs are now occurring, making these varieties less effective than they were 10 years ago. These varieties offer some of the best qualities of all St. Augustine varieties. This does not mean they will not develop chinch bugs, but are best able to tolerate an infestation. Property watering is very important to managing your lawn and lessening chinch bug susceptibility. Over watering leads to excessive growth and thatch build up. Excessive thatch provides a favorable habitat for chinch bugs to reproduce and a tough barrier to provide chemical control in. A dry lawn creates weak turf and moisture stressed areas, which draw chinch bug activity. If you notice footprints or leaf blades folding with a grayish appearance when walking across your lawn, it is time to water. Three quarters of an inch, twice weekly will suffice. At Southern Care Lawns, we take the time necessary to provide a thorough, even chinch bug application, with the highest quality products available. Chinch bug control with “over the counter” products from local home / hardware stores, is difficult to attain. Please call us for a free analysis if you think your lawn may be infested with chinch bugs. We’re here to help. |
Sod Web Worms/Army Worms |
| Sod Web Worms Sod Webworms are a "lawn caterpillar" which affects lawns in the Tampa Bay Area usually. The active period for Sod Webworm activity usually beginning in early June thru September; typically twelve weeks. Your yard may become infested at anytime from June to September. Sod webworms are very easy to control and typically do not do long term damage. Usually after chemical application, the area will re-grow in 3 to 4 weeks. Sod Webworm eggs are laid by a moth. Many species of lawn moths are seen in June. Most are not sod web worm moths. Sod Webworm moths do not land on the turf but hover and drop eggs from above. Most commonly, an area starts where turf and shrub beds meet. Moths land on shrubs and drop eggs from above, landing on turf at the edges of the shrub beds. Sod Webworms feed at night. Active feeding is not seen unless you examine your lawn after dark. Areas begin as small fist-sized area that appear as if the area has been weed whacked lower than the surrounding grass. Closer examination will show droppings (brown) in the feeding area and chewed areas on the turf blades. Please call us if you see damage of suspect sod webworm activity. |
| Army Worms Armyworms are a lawn caterpillar, which typically become active at the beginning of June and during our rainy season. Eggs are laid by a specific lawn moth (there are many moths that fly in and out of turf grass), that deposits eggs near the base of the turf blades. Eggs hatch and small caterpillars chew on leaf blades (sod webworms feed at night and army worms feed in the daylight). These areas usually begin close to shrub beds or in crab / carpet grass areas first, then extending into St. Augustine areas. Areas begin small, usually 1” or less in diameter, and as the insects increase in size, their appetites increase, and the areas become much larger. These may join newly hatched areas adjacent and become larger. Usually black / brown droppings can be noted on turf blades or at the crown area at the base. Leaf blades will be chewed and appear with notches taken out of the blade, giving the appearance of windows in the blade. From a distance, areas are shorter than surrounding turf, and have the appearance of being trimmed with a weed whacker. Chemical controls are very easy and the insect dies easily. Areas may need re-treatment due do new hatching. These may occur into October. Life cycles are approximately 12 weeks long. Damaged areas will re-grow quickly and typically appear undamaged in two to three weeks.
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| Grubs |
| If your specialist has mentioned you may have grubs damaging your lawn, here is what to expect. Grubs are the larval stage of many of the beetles you see in the summer, sometimes clinging to your windows and door screens. It is not uncommon to come across some grubs in your soil when planting flowers, sodding or digging in general. When the grub population reaches a threshold of four to six grubs per square foot, this is when it warrants control measures, as it is beyond the normal range. Grubs are generally white, fleshy, “C” shaped insects with a brown head and a dark rear anal cavity. Their control is difficult due to their size, usually about the length and thickness of your little finger. They are difficult to detect as they feed underground devouring turf roots. The result is a lawn, which appears too dry. The drought appearance is due to the root loss and the turfs ability to pick up water from a diminished root system. Many times, the damage is extensive enough before symptoms appear and turf loss is probable. Post damage chemical applications will control any remaining grubs and potassium fertilizer applications will help rejuvenate root growth in existing areas. A new product is available for areas of prior grub activity or high potential infestation areas, (i.e. close proximity to salt water). The product is called ALLECTUS and is applied in June. It is not part of your regular program application cost, but is available as a supplement to those customers who wish more extensive control measures. ALLECTUS is highly recommended if you live near saltwater or have a history of grub activity. Please contact your specialist to schedule this application.
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| Mole Crickets | |
| Mole crickets are a very damaging insect to Florida turf grasses. They are typically most damaging to Bermuda and Bahia grass lawns. Mole crickets can also cause damage to St. Augustine lawns, although St. Augustine lawns typically have a better re-cuperative potential to tolerate mole cricket damage. Mole crickets damage by directly feeding on root systems or by tunneling which damages vital root hairs thus causing the roots to dry prematurely and die. Bahia grass is extremely susceptible to severe damage due it's smaller weak root system. Mole crickets are attracted to lights at night; street lights, yard or porch lights. These lights left on at night in March/April will draw adult egg laying mole crickets to that area of land for a brief period where they deposit eggs. These eggs hatch in May/June and nymphal stage mole crickets begin to feed. This is the best time to control them as they are smaller and more susceptible to ingestion and contact of the chemical control product applied. As the summer progresses, mole crickets become large and their body becomes more impervious to chemical absorption. To minimize mole cricket potential: - Only fertilize Bahia grass 2 to 3 times a year.
- Don't use high Nitrogen fertilizer rate. Lush green bahia is a prime targe for adults to lay eggs.
- Don't overwater - again, less water is better on Bahia - it triggers lush green grown and also lessens weed issues.
- Don't treat weeds in Bahia. It speeds the decline of Bahia.
Remember, Bahia grass is a short term turf. It will live 2-5 years and still progressively decline no matter how often and what products you apply. Expect decline because it will happen. Mole crickets are only part of the decline potential. If you want bahia grass, plan on annual over-seeding with Pensacola Bahia seed, apply in June/July. Bahia seed contains common Bermuda seed also and will provide a better long term potential. Please call us if you suspect mole cricket activity, we can steer you in the right direction.
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| Jadera | |
| Jadera bugs are members of a group of insects called Scentless plant bugs. They are sometimes referred to as "Golden raintree bugs", because they feed directly on dropped seeds of the Golden raintree. Other species of Jadera bugs not found in Florida feed on seeds of other trees.
Jadera bugs are not harmful as their feeding is restricted to the dropped seeds. Populations can be very large where multiple Golden raintrees are present. The insects may spend their non-feeding periods on the tree trunks near the base of the tree and move into lawn areas to feed where seeds are present.
Chemical controls are not typically necessary unless the insects become a nuisance. Raking of the raintree seeds generally will rid you of the Jadera bugs.
Nymphs (immature stage) are mostly red in color with black legs and head. Adults have a more of a black abdomen with red edges below the thorax.
Jadera bugs are often confused with the more serious and damaging Boxelder bugs.
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| Millipedes/Centipedes | |
| Millipedes and centipedes are often confused for each other. Millipedes are usually dark colored and have two pairs of legs per body segment. Millipedes are generally slow moving creatures that break down dead plant material. They are beneficial to your garden as they feed on the dead plant material and return lawn fertilizing nutrients to the soil.
Centipedes are predacious, feeding on many harmful insects that can damage your landscape plants. Millipedes and centipedes can be found hiding in the damp soil under rocks or boards. They are very beneficial to the overall well-being of your lawn and garden. |
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| Armadillos | |
| Armadillos can be a real nuisance to you and your lawn. Armadillos are primarily nocturnal and do the most damage at night while searching for food. Their favorite meals are any insects which live in the soil. The most common of these are grubs, beetles, earthworms, crickets etc.. They damage the ground by digging small fist-sized holes in the lawn in search of these prized insect morsels. Armadillo activity may be accentuated if you live near "natural areas" where they are plentiful and nesting may occur.
It is a common misconception that if you have armadillo damage you have grubs, however this is not true. Remember grubs are only a portion of their regular diet. Another important thing to remember is that grubs eat turf roots. If your turf is green and healthy it is most likely that grubs are NOT the issue. Any grub activity that may warrant control will result in the turf being able to be picked up like sod.
Grubs are always present in your soil to some extent. You will find them while landscaping, but rarely are they found at the control threshold of 4 - 6 per square foot.
It is our policy not to treat for grubs unless they have been soley identified as the source of the armadillo problem or if they are causing your turf decline. However, if their activity becomes unbearable to you, our customer, we will apply the appropriate product to gain control. There will be an additional charge for the application.
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| Deer | |
| Damage from deer feeding is more common than you would think especially if you live adjacent to a naturalized area. Typically, Hibiscus, Indian Hawthorn and Sheflera are their favorite plants to feed on. However, if these prime plants are not available deer have been found to eat almost any landscape plant. Feeding will occur during the night when human activity is at its lowest. Feeding damage will resemble an intense pruning with uneven edges. Besides the natural reduction in plant size created by the feeding, certain plants may be weakened. The weakening occurs when new growth emerges and is quickly eaten off.
Deer feed on many plants and trees commonly found in the yard. They love strawberries, many vegetables, flowers, and the tender tips of young trees. They have been known to dig up a lawn in search of grubs.
Most home landscapes and yards are "easy pickings" for a hungry deer. They see it as an easily accessible buffet of culinary delights, much to your dismay. Keeping them away from your landscape plants can be a frustrating and seemingly hopeless task.
There are several home-remedy and commercial yard care products available to help reduce deer feeding habits on plants and trees. Many are short-lived, and once the deer become accustomed to the odor or taste, they may become ineffective. It is best to change products or methods on a regular basis. Some of the remedies are:
- Hang a bar of soap in a mesh bag from a tree. Fragrant soaps such as Lifebuoy, Irish Spring, and Dial seem to work the best. Tie the bags to the ends of the branches so that any soap that drips off during a rain or snowstorm will not drip onto the trunk. This can be unsightly and ruin the asthetic appreance of your landscape.
- Human or dog hair can also be placed in mesh bags or nylons and hung from tree branches. Human or dog hair is sometimes effective but at the same time can be a little gross.
- Moth balls, blood meal, bone meal and baby powder are other options that may have a short term success in keeping deer out, but these will require continued, repeated applications. Although the moth balls, blood meal and bone meal can have an undesirable odor.
- Barriers or roll-up fencing can be placed around the affected plant or plants to directly stop the access of the deer to the plant. This type of control can also be unsightly and ruin the asthetics of the landscape.
- Repellants seem to be the most effective option in controlling your deer problem. Deer repellant sprays are available at most garden centers and nurseries. These are typically applied every 3 - 6 weeks on affected plants and works well on deterring the deer. It is typically applied more often during the rainy season or when regular maintenance is occurring (via pruning) removing the sprayed tissue.
Do not dismiss the potential for deer activity in your landscape. If you live near wooded areas you are likely being visited at night by these four legged eating machines.
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| Pocket Gophers | |
| Pocket gophers (Thomomys spp.) are burrowing rodents that get their name from the fur-lined external cheek pouches, or pockets, that they use for carrying food and nesting materials. Mounds of fresh soil are the best sign of gopher presence. One gopher may create several mounds in a day. In non-irrigated areas, mound building is most pronounced during spring or fall when the soil is moist and easy to dig. In irrigated areas such as lawns, flower beds, and gardens, digging conditions are usually optimal year round and mounds can appear at any time.
Pocket gophers are herbivorous, feeding on a wide variety of vegetation, but generally preferring herbaceous plants, shrubs, and trees. Gophers use their sense of smell to locate food. Most commonly they feed on roots and fleshy portions of plants they encounter while digging. However, sometimes they feed aboveground, venturing only a body length or so from their tunnel opening. Burrow openings used in this manner are called "feed holes." They are identified by the absence of a dirt mound and a circular band of clipped vegetation around the hole. Gophers will also pull entire plants into their tunnel from below.
Pocket gophers often invade yards and gardens, and feed on many garden crops, ornamental plants, vines, shrubs, and trees. A single gopher moving down a garden row can inflict considerable damage in a very short time. Gophers also gnaw and damage plastic water lines and lawn sprinkler systems. Their tunnels can divert and carry off irrigation water and lead to soil erosion. Mounds on lawns interfere with mowing equipment and ruin the aesthetics of well-kept turfgrass.
To successfully control gophers, the sooner you detect their presence and take control measures, the better.
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